South African Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Review - Volume 45 Number 5, May 2018

Amsterdam has always been on my bucket list, mainly because it’s tulip, windmill, cheese and Stroopwafle heaven. In April, I got to tick this destination off my bucket list when I travelled to Amsterdam for in-cosmetics Global with Henkel South Africa’s R&D manager, Lutendo Magina. Henkel SA won the 2017 P C Review/ Symrise New Product Competition which includes flights, accommodation and entry into the show.

Water wise hygiene solutions from initial

DFE Pharma changes its SA distributor

Silky hair with shea spray

Reveal your natural beauty

Fresh, feminine and spicy

Happy and healthy hair

Sun protection to the max

Dairy 2018

The 2018 edition of the event attracted 9 392 unique visitors, seven percent more than last year’s show in London, UK, with international attendance increasing by 19 percent to account for 88 percent of all visitors. Representatives from major cosmetics manufacturers such as Unilever, Amka, Estée Lauder, Coty, Union Swiss, L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble and Johnson & Johnson attended the show to identify new ingredients and learn about the trends set to shape their future NPD. The daily re-admittance figures underlined the industry’s commitment to the show. Over the three days, in-cosmetics Global recorded a significant growth in total attendance with 18 207 visitors, up 12 percent from 16 319 in London. in-cosmetics’ first smart event, which enabled visitors to collate exhibitor literature digitally with a single tap of their smart badge, delivered innovation in abundance, with an exhibition that once again housed the world’s leading personal care industry suppliers.

Mike Naude, as he was fondly known to members of The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association (AMA), passed away peacefully on 24 March. His passion for the South African aerosols industry and perseverance for safety and compliance helped shape the industry to where it is today.

Chemicals like LPGas – which is used by aerosol manufacturers – plant design and the level of automation within plants have changed dramatically over the years. These developments have had a direct effect on the supply chain requiring companies to improve their processes and facilities with quality, compliance and safety in mind. Gas Piping Services (GPS) and its affiliate business, Liquitel are experts in engineering, with a combined 55 years’ experience in the gas and related industries. Both companies are equipped to help aerosol manufacturers and their suppliers move with the times to enable better quality finished products, enhanced customer service and a safer and more compliant aerosols industry. De Wet comments: ‘The company started with LPGas bulk installations and gas installer training for various gas companies.

In September 2014, Puregas embarked on a journey to safeguard its core business. Grant Gascoigne, the company’s technical manager reveals how Puregas remained aligned with its vision to be a leading supplier of aerosol propellants in southern Africa. Having experienced numerous refinery scheduled and unscheduled shutdowns resulting in decreased propellant availability, Puregas started the process of installing extra butane storage that would improve supply to its customers as well as give the company the ability to store imported product, which was becoming a significant part of its business. So the journey began of the installation of a 500m³ bulk butane storage vessel.

Chemlink SA was launched in 2015 to meet the aerosol filling needs of smaller businesses and corporate companies. Howell is one of four coowners of this contract filling business, along with Richard Hallam and Mike Maree (ex Carbotec), and Andre du Plessis (ex Spraymate). Together, they have 150 years’ combined experience in the aerosols industry. ‘Our plant was developed in line with EU compliance requirements and with safety as a top priority. We strive to maintain these high standards and welcome any visits or audits,’ he comments. ‘Unfortunately, compliance, quality and safety come at a price, yet we’ve chosen to invest in this segment of the industry, rather than having our clients run the risk of a product recall amounting to millions of Rands.’

Discomfort, fragility, dehydration, scaliness and redness are all characteristics of sensitive skin. Its intolerance to external aggressors has increased in consumers in most urban areas. This evidence suggests reduced exposure to nature may be related to an increase in the risk of inflammatory skin conditions. Yet the skin of our ancestors, who were in closer contact with nature, was more resilient.

NaturePep Quinoa (INCI: Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract) from Tri-K is a dual acting superfood derived natural peptide that is clinically proven to visibly reduce under eye bags and puffiness. The small peptides in the active ingredient provide powerful performance to support the structural integrity of the skin and break down fat under the eyes. This innovative product also diminishes eyelid creases and folds while reducing roughness for lifted ageless eyes.

Whether its job related, relationship conflicts, or a busy lifestyle, stress has become a constant part of our lives. Skin naturally responds to periods of stress with the formation of more cortisol through 11ß-HSD1enzyme. This release of cortisol, the so called stress hormone, is a normal and healthy adaptation reflex. However, cortisol can turn into an enemy of the skin if it remains in excess over a long period of time.

Available in South Africa from Millchem, Blue Oléoactif is sourced from black, red and brown rice using a patented Oléo-écoextraction process. It is biomimetic, eco-designed, 100 percent vegetal, safe and Cosmos certified. The active effectively protects skin’s cells from urban pollution and blue light and boosts their defence mechanism. Blue Oléoactif gives skin the power to protect itself and the ability to detoxify. It regulates hyperpigmentation caused by blue light, effectively boosts cell repair and protects DNA and other cellular components of the damaging effects induced by urban pollution. The active is also proven exceptionally efficient in preventing and repairing reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation and damage induced by urban pollution and blue light.

Zuplex Botanicals (Zuplex) is a South African producer of botanical ingredients. Its new range includes several exciting and innovative botanical extracts aimed at the global cosmetics industry. The company was established to add value to unique and established botanicals through the manufacture of standardised extracts using innovative technologies. It is vertically integrated and offers services from cultivation to the final preparation of extracts.

Snail Filtrate is an ingredient extracted from a defensive liquid secreted by a mollusc (snail). It’s been used as a solution for skin care products to protect, restore, renew and hydrate. The popularity of beauty products containing snail extract kicked off a few years ago, driven by trends in the Asia Pacific region. Yet certain factors have prevented the growth of the Snail Filtrate trend such as a demand for more ethical behaviours and vegan and religious concerns. Snail Filtrate repels western European consumers and many consumers do not want to use products derived from animals. The snail mucus extraction doesn’t correspond with ethical behaviours because it involves submitting the gastropods to extremely stressful conditions for a period of time.

Bacteria and the skin microbiome remain hot topics in the cosmetics industry and it looks like they are going to continue to be the centre of attention for a long time. The concept of good bacteria, many of which live on the skin, resonates with consumers. However, on a scientific level, the skin microbiome is still an extremely challenging topic.

Pricing is a business-critical activity. Getting it right – provided the data and pricing are accurate – is more than likely to result in an increase in sales and profits. Get it wrong and you jeopardise your brand’s future sustainability. BMi Research and BlackCurve, a global price management company, recently announced a partnership that will combine best practices in pricing management with price trend expertise to offer client’s a holistic pricing solution.

Using an Artificial Intelligence model of the immune system, CytoReason looked into genomic data of patients that responded to treatment from anti-inflammatory drugs such as Remicade versus those that did not respond. Comparing the results, the company discovered specific biomarkers in blood and tissue samples which predicted who would and would not respond to anti-TNF drugs such as Remicade in the future. Typically the process to determine whether a patient was responsive to anti-TNF drugs like Remicade took over three months and was dependant on trial and error, exposing the patient to potential side effects and unnecessary costs. In the first public demonstration of its technology, CytoReason used three different publicly available and independent clinical trials to study the RNA from lesion tissues to see what the difference was in those who responded to the anti-TNF treatment to those who did not. Discovering what the differences were through the use of its AI technology, CytoReason was able to determine when a pharmaceutical product will and will not be effective.

Advances in manufacturing, serialisation, labelling, shipping and distribution while still ensuring sustainable business practices have contributed to the boom in the global pharma market. According to the International Federation of Pharmaceutical Manufacturers Association, the global pharmaceutical market will reach nearly USD 1,430 billion by 2020 with ‘pharmerging’ countries accounting for 25 percent of global spending on pharmaceuticals by 2020, compared to 23 percent in 2015.

The importance of hair care is greater for African women than it is for any other consumer group. They use a wide and diverse spectrum of hair products and looks and love using them. They also visit salons more regularly than their European counterparts. The African hair care segment is a big market. According to a Euromonitor report, between 2010 and 2015 hair care was among the fastest growing categories of products sold in South Africa, with sales climbing 38 percent during that period. African hair is known to be the most fragile, dry and brittle hair type and requires more care and attention.

It was marketing manager, Chantal McCallum’s idea to engage with these women who face real and recent struggles with their hair. ‘I am constantly looking for new ways to learn as much as I can from these amazing African women. It’s only in the last few years that they have experimented with natural hair, and with the controversial history surrounding African hair, consumers have struggled to find a reliable ‘go to’ that understands what it takes to look after natural hair,’ she explains. ‘It was only after the natural hair movement started, where these bloggers saw pictures of ladies embracing their natural hair, that they realised their hair can actually look the same.’

Create magic with packaging

Positioned to serve the SA Market

Reliable labellers for pharma packs

Marchesini to establish new beauty division

Sappi acquires cham paper group

Waste disposal shortcuts add to environmental challenges

Its Algro Design is a one side doublecoated solid bleached board (SBB) with a remarkable silky touch that’s perfect for lamination on solid and corrugated boards. It has no washboarding effect, sports a fresh and clean look, high resistance to ageing and comprises cartonboard bulk and stiffness compared to other liners. A recent ProCarton ECMA Awards finalist, the packaging for Lumene’s Wheel of Light line cosmetics is a concept developed by Edelmann and a British design team. Lumene is a Finnish skin care and cosmetics brand. The goal of the packaging was to emphasise a brand story highlighting the exceptional pure nature and yearly light cycle of the Scandinavian landscape with special visual and physical features. Sappi’s Algro Design was the material selected for the cartons. The surface characteristics and excellent converting capabilities of the SBB perfectly represented the Nordic values of purity, simplicity and authenticity. The result was a powerful and coherent design concept for all Wheel of Light packs.

Brand owners and consumers alike are in search of packaging presenting functionality, strong brand identity opportunities, small pack sizes, innovative design with unique features and reduced use of resources using a clever design. Paperboards make eye-catching and prestigious packaging stiff without adding weight. They are especially suitable for special effects such as hot foil stamping, foil lamination, embossing and protecting the product inside. Fresh fibres are naturally pure and clean, and boards made from them also have excellent taint and odour properties.

Cold chain packaging plays a critical role in the global delivery and transportation of temperature sensitive products for the pharmaceutical and biotech industries. Sealed Air, a secondary packaging provider, ensures the safe and secure distribution of temperature sensitive pharmaceuticals, chemicals, and perishables. The company supplies protective solutions that insulate against temperature changes, control vibration, optimise cube, reduce void fill and minimise freight costs. There are multiple assurance solutions available. Among these are Kevothermal vacuum insulated panels and TempGuard insulated carton liners.

It is necessary to influence and ensure that regulatory agencies take a harsher look at how products are marketed globally. South Africa does not have a biodegradability testing standard at the moment and most of the claims made locally are based on tests done abroad. Formulations are generally qualified based on certification of the raw material components used. However, the fact that the individual components are biodegradable does not guarantee that the final product will be biodegradable.

Tea time

Web review